Your Cars Safety
First the basics, if your reading this your either someone who is just starting to race, a veteran racer, or just someone who is courious. First of all lets get one thing straight. Racing Is a Contact Sport, Its faster than a thrown baseball, tougher than football and one can seriously get injured, whether you are in the drivers seat at speeds in excess of 120 mph or walking in the pit area Racing is a dangerous sport
First Your Cars safety is a very critical part of your program. A fire extinguisher is not the only thing you have to think about when the word safety is brought up. Seat mounts, Steering, safety Belt mounts, Door Bars, Helmet, Fire suit and shoes. These are just a few of the items that come to play when its time for you to walk away from a wreck.
Safety surely will not make your race car faster, more than likely your getting bored just by thinking about the word. All your life you hear about it and now its more important to PAY ATTENTION. Racing is a very dangerous sport, serious accidents can and do happen on short race tracks. If your building a race car or just purchased one, the main thing that should be going through your mind is how safe the car is incase of a crash on the race track.
This section lists basic safety information that everyone should heed, every driver is responsable for understanding an implementing a safety program for his or her team.
One very important safey factor is to all ways place jack stands under the frame of the race car every time someone has to go under it. To many racers get seriously injured every year when they are in a hurry to fix something under the car by not placing jack stands to support the chassis when its lifted up off the ground or garage floor.
Always go into the thought of safety when working on or around your race car. Sharp objects, moving parts, or just hurrying to finish the nights projects can sacrifice safety.
First we will start out with the most important of the basics
Fire Wall: Is designed to keep fire, fumes and toxic matter out of the chassis at all times, occasionally things are removed from a firewall when not needed in a race car when its changed its life from a daily driver. Roll bars pass through the fire wall and often times little gaps surround the bars, these holes and gaps must be filled to keep unwanted fire and fumes out, remember that any hole in the fire wall is a hazard to the driver in the cockpit, weld gaps, cover holes with plates, and use tight fitting rubber grommets where wires pass through, the grommets also serve a good use in keeping electrical shorts from happening when a wire rubs on sheet metal.
Fuel Cell: Has one purpose in life, to hold racing fuel during the event that a crash occurs. One of the best fuel cells you can buy is a cell with a rubber bladder which can withstand violent damage to the steel container and still hold fuel. One of the other types of fuel cells(Buget, or sportsman) is made of plastic, and with small damage it can split, leaking fuel on the ground in a dangerous way. No matter what fuel cell you elect to use, always use fuel cell foam. Sloshing of fuel from side to side is eliminated and the chances for an explosion are reduced when you use it.
Most sanctions specify where the fuel cell is to be mounted, do not push the boundarys of these dimensions. A good rule of thumb is to mount the fuel cell as far forward as you can away from the rear end of the car and never place it below the rear end housing, If you get hit from the rear or run over debris on the race track you could puncture the fuel cell which is very dangerous. Always mount a separate tube to the chassis behind the fuel cell which will act as a fuel cell guard. This guard must extend to the bottom of the fuel cell for it to be effective. Always mount the fuel cell container in a way that will provent it from breaking loose during contact or an accident. Mount a 1/8” thick and 2 inches wide running lengthwise and crosswise to secure the cell on top. The final note of mounting the fuel cell is to have a good check valve mounted for properly vent the fumes and shut the flow of fuel off if the car should end up up side down.
Driver Impact Prevention in the cockpit: When you are building a race car or just purchased one. Survey the interior, by measuring from the top of where the drivers helmet will be to the bottom of the roof bars, make sure there is at least 4 inches of clearance, when a driver is strapped in the seat and involved in an accident the neck and spine can stretch a maximum of 10%. The last thing the driver wants is to have an arm go out the window and reach the top of the roof as it flips over onto the racing surface. The rest of the roll bars and objects should be placed out of reach of the driver. The only thing that should be touchable to the driver is the fuel shut off, ignition switch, brake bias, pedals, and the steering wheel, these items must be within reach, and still considered a hazard,. Anything else in arm or leg reach is a hazard, mount fire extinguishers well out of the way of harm. if using a manual bottle release, mount it where the driver will not fumble around for the release but will not get tangled in it when he has to use it.
Roll Bar Padding: All contact areas within the cockpit must be cushioned with a high density foam padding. Always use a roll bar padding that is made specifically for racing, this specialized padding absorbs impact, and is fire retardant. Cover all roll bars that the driver can contact with his arms and legs, make sure the steering column is padded also to help guard against his legs or knees contacting a hard surface.
Window Net: Will help keep the drivers head and arms restrained to the car incase of hard impact or roll over, make sure the latching mechanism will hold fast and is easy to release by the driver, the last thing you will want is to try and fumble around to release the window net while upside down or when the car is on fire. One type of latch that can be used is a ratchet type which the safety belts hook together with, the second type is more commonly used and readily available from any scrap yard which is a common seat belt from a chevy automobile. Which ever type of latch you use for the window net, make sure that the welds holding the latch mechanisms to the window bar and chassis are welded in such a way that if a tire or large debris comes in contact with the window net the welds holding the net inplace will not come apart.
When choosing a window net, buy one that fits the chassis making the most coverage of the window. In large window openings its all ways good to have a full size window net and a secondary smaller trianglar one for extra protection. All most all the nascar teams use two nets and one extra trianglar smaller one on the right side of the seat to prevent exessive arm and head movement.
Cockpit Items: Ignition components, fire extinguishers and other items in the cockpit must be mounted in a way that the driver cannot reach them while in the seat buckled in, reducing the chances of injury during a crash. Quick release steering wheels are mandatory in racing to help with egress or in first aid administered on the scene after an accident. Have the driver practice getting in and out of the car with the steering wheel mounted on the steering column to simulate a jammed quick release. A quick kill switch is mandatory in most all sanctions to stop the spark from going to the ignition. Its always a safe practice to wire your car in such a way that when the master electrical switch is turned off, the engine will shut down. Its up to the driver to inspect every inch of the cockpit every time he enters the car. Time should be taken to practice exiting the car to prepare for an emergency. A lot of things can happen if your involved in a crash. A driver can get injured stunned or loose time. Practice every conceivable type of crash to get used to getting out of the car in a hurry with out panic. The driver should be able to get out of the car blindfoled wearing full racing attire to simulate A burning car that is smoking so bad you cant see your hand infront of your face.. The maximum time it should take the driver to get out of the car is what his firesuit is rated for. If it's the best suit available will allow you about 10 seconds of direct flame, cheaper suits only allow you 1.5 seconds...can you get out of your car in under 2 seconds by unhooking the steering, releasing the safety restraints and dropping the window net to climb out?
Quick Release Steering Hub: Climbing in and out of a race car can be difficult during normal conditions, add a crash or a fire and it can almost seem impossible, chose a reliable quick release hub for your steering wheel. Many types are available. Most all of them use a pin to hold the hub in place during use. Make periodical checks for corrosion to ensure a good fit. Lubricate points of contact with light grease. Do not use any type of quick release hub that contains plastic parts, incase of fire the plastic can melt and you will not be able to release the steering wheel.
Steering Wheel: Many steering wheels are offered on the market for the racer. Take caution when buying a steering wheel. Buy one that is comfortable to the driver and that will bend a little in a severe accident. Do not use one made of steel, severe injury can result from the metal not bending, causing chest or arm injury. Always use a steering wheel with padding it not only helps with hands getting grip but also cushions impact to the drivers hands. Always have the wheel positioned for comfort to the driver during the race. On a short track where fatigue is not a factor use a larger steering wheel that is further away from his chest so injury is not going to happen if in an accident. On longer tracks use a smaller steering wheel mounted closer to the driver to prevent arm strain during the long straights.
On board Fire systems: Every race car should be equiped with at least a fire extinguisher using Halon as the extinguishing agent, a good onboard fire system is the only way to go, three nozzles of protection in the following areas; one nozzle in the engine compartment, one in the cockpit and one back by the fuel cell is the best protection that can be offered. Normally a set up like this is engaged when a pin is released buying time for the driver to get out of the car. Usually 3 to 4 seconds of protection is enough time to allow the driver to get out of the car. Remember it only has to beat back the fire until the driver gets out..The real fire fighting belongs to the race tracks fire dept to put the fire out.
Racing Seat: A higher quality racing seat to provide support to the driver in cornering and in an accident is extremely important. Make sure the driver is comfortable and properly restrained in the seat. The seat should fit the driver snuggly when buckled in and not feel constricting when racing around the corners at maximum g force. A driver can get worn out having to hold himself up to the steering wheel or fight to sit straight in the seat. There can be no wiggle room in the seat when the driver is buckled up. Stay away from fiberglass and plastic seats, the protection they give may not be enough under crumpling impact or secondary impact. The seat material should be made of 5052 alum with a minimum of .125 thickness anything else doesnt offer mandatory protection to the drivers body. Always use a high back seat offering head and neck protection. The use of additional head and rib protectors, with leg and shoulder protection is a must also. Make sure the slots and cutouts of the racing seat are rubber lined so that sharp edges do not cut into the safety belts. Use round headed carriage bolts on the inside of the racing seat so that there is not sharp edges or bumps that can be uncomfortable to the driver. Dense foam should make up the padding of the seat, make sure its fire retardant and wont melt incase of contact with fire.
The seat must be mounted with a minimum of 6 mounting bolts to hold it secure, also a seat hoop should be used to mount the seat to the cars chassis. One side of the hoop mounted to the left side of the chassis and one side of it mounted to the tubing behind the seat, a third mount should be mounted to the chassis on the right side of the seat to make sure it doesnt move in case of a crash near the door bars, I use a rule that I mount one tube to the door bars and the other two on an angle to the right side allowing the seat to move to the right if a catastrophic accident happens. This allows the driver to walk away from the car and not have to get cut out of it . Use 3/16” mounting tabs on the tube for the restraining belts and do not drill holes close to the edge of the tabs. Always use belt manufacturers recommended bolting system. Stress cracks can result from constant wear and tear on tubing and mounting tabs for seat and belts, constantly monitor these areas and repair when needed, put it first on the to do list for the week. The hoop for the seat mount should be made of 1.25” dia dom tubing with a wall thickness of .090”. Care should be taken weekly to check the tightness of the mounting bolts and to the welds holding the hoop in place. Remember that the seat needs to hold the driver restrained in all conditions, whether he is chasing the lead down the track or involved in a crash. The racing seat needs to restrain him at all times.
Safety Belts: Always use a good 5 or 6 point harness, Most sanctions specify the type of belt required. I do not recommend using the ratchet latch style belt system, most sanctions will not allow the use of these belts. The ratchet belt setup always has a chance of coming undone if you accidently bump it and it turns. Always look at the freshness date and do not use a safety belt that is more than 2 years old. Follow the mounting instructions by the manufacturer. Do not make sharp turns or mount the tabs in such a way that it puts over stress to the belt, or snags that could damage the belt. Always remember that the shoulder harness must mount chest level or lower. The sharper angle when mounted above chest level can cause more harm than not having a safety belt. Sunlight, oil, dirt, water can wear a belts life out quickly, so take care in keeping the safety belts clean and dry to prolong life.
Helmets Fire Suit and Neck Collars: Just remember that your life is on the line when you race. If you get in a crash and your car catches fire, the only thing that is protecting you against those burning flames is your fire suit. Alway buy the best suit you can for additional exposure, wear Fire retardant underwear, hood, socks and gloves. Always buy the newest SFI rated helmet offering the best support you can afford, Use a neck collar, most accidents cause the head to jerk forward with the weight of the helmet forcing the chin of the helmet against the chest. If your lucky you wont break your collar bone or chest plate. Using a neck collar gives the helmet padding to hit when it rocks forward in a crash.
Remember that Safety starts with the driver and has to go onto the crew. Racing is a dangerous sport so always think safety.
I have had issues with the provider for the guest book so we are trying a new one, please sign it and give your feedback.